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       Hello- I have an unusual problem perhaps someone could shed some light on: I have a TR-4 in 29K serial range that functions normally except it will not go back into receive, until after approx 30 second delay, after the mic button is released or the function switch turned back to "SSB". This condition worsens (longer delay) the more you frequently you transmit. The sidetone disappears but T-R relay will not release. I have tried different known-good 6EV7 tubes, have replaced a lot of the coupling / bypass caps in T-R circuits, did resistance / voltage checks, adjusted the VOX / VOX delay controls, tried other tubes in T-R circuit, etc. to no avail. What is real curious about this is that while waiting for it to go back into receive and T-R relay is engaged, IF YOU PULL THE 6EV7 FROM ITS SOCKET THE T-R RELAY STILL DOES NOT RELEASE. I suspect the issue is with the lead that goes from T-R relay coil to pin #1 on 6EV7 (somehow allowing enough leakage to ground?) or could it be the T-R relay coil itself I made sure socket / pins and all are clean on 6EV7. Any help appreciated, thanks. Perplexed, Byron WA5THJ. x H S事实星座模型是更为复杂的模型,其中包含多个事实表,而维度表是公用的,可以共享。N K pcasino games book

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      J aA Ron / WB4HFN -------------- Original message -------------- From: Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Garey Barrell made an utterance to the drakelist gang > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > Byron - > > OK. Relays take more coil current to "pull in" than they do to "hold > in". It takes a certain amount of current through the coil (pull) to > drag the armature from it's non-energized position to the energized > position. It takes much less current to (hold) it once there, so slight > leakage might NOT be sufficient to pull, but more than enough to hold. > > I don't know of any good way to touch up the panels. The original > "paint" is so thin, (I actually think it is more a dye (anodize?) than > paint, but don't know for sure,) and as a result any sort of paint ends > up looking worse than the mark! For a small mark or two, it might be > possible to just "fill" the mark to the level of the panel, but a string > of numbers would be a real challenge. Never could understand people > that do that sort of thing, especially on the front panel!! > > I just saw your order. There are scans of both the 34-NB and the 34-PNB > manuals, with quite a bit of information, plus I have added a photograph > of the board itself with active components and alignment info > annotated. There is also a Voltage table for the NB, which has not been > previously published. It's really a straightforward design, and most > units in the field benefit from an alignment. > > A lot of the components are common between the TR-3 and TR-4, but every > once in a while they threw in a curve like that cap to keep us off > balance! :-) > > Your CDs will go out tomorrow. Thank you! > > 73, Garey - K4OAH > Glen Allen, VA > > Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs > > > > > Byron Tatum wrote: > > > > "Byron Tatum" made an utterance to the drakelist gang > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Hey Garey- > > Thank you for the comments and help. I start nights at work and > > will have several to complete, then I will get back into the TR-4. I > > will measure voltage as you suggest, looking for a slight voltage > > drop. Then I will check out relay itself. > > I am beginning to think that it is the magnetizing of pole piece > > and relay wear that is the problem. If it was a leakage to ground on > > the 6EV7 pin #1 lead you might think the set would go into TX on its > > own (relay energize) every now and then, of which I have never saw it do. > > One other thing- I bought a nice TR-4 from a fellow, based on > > several pictures, but the photo angles, due to glare, covered up (of > > all things) a ham's DL # engraved on the front panel in tiny lettering > > , immediately to the right of "TR-4" on front panel. Do you know of a > > touch up paint that matches the darker grey of that front panel area? > > I got the set for a decent price, it was nice and had the built in > > NB, but had a problem (as advertised). I found T-9 to be burned out in > > center area of coil form. I had a spare T-9 from a parts unit TR-3. > > Thank goodness I opened up the TR-3 T-9 transformer before I installed > > it -- it had a 56 pF cap in it that was not in the TR-4 T-9. Otherwise > > the coils looked the same. Anyway, I clipped out the capacitor and all > > went OK after the repair. That is not a fun repair for sure!! > > CUL, Byron. > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Garey Barrell" > > To: > > Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 1:46 PM > > Subject: Re: [drakelist] TR-4 TX Hang-Up > > > > > >> Byron - > >> > >> Well things were going well until you pulled the tube out of the > >> socket! :-) > >> > >> There are a limited number of possibilities in that case. The relay > >> coil leads go through the feedthrough bypass caps _under_ the power > >> connector. Of course the relay lead to the 6EV7 is the one UNDER the > >> Jones connector, the last one in the "arc" of feedthroughs there. > >> (C92) There are no more components between this feedthrough and the > >> 6EV7 tube socket. The other relay coil lead goes directly the +250V bus > >> via the next feedthrough cap along the arc, (C91). So the voltage > >> measured at the tube socket pin with the tube out should be exactly the > >> same as the +250V bus. Any drop would indicate leakage. See attached > >> photo from my CD (at reduced resolution). > >> > >> So..... Leaky C92, leaky tube socket, pinched wire. One possibility I > >> have seen a few times is the "down" stop on the relay gets hammered down > >> over the years, allowing the armature to actually touch the pole piece > >> of the coil. The pole piece is slightly magnetized, and if the armature > >> physically is in contact with it, it will "stick". An easy check is to > >> slip a piece of paper in to prevent metal to metal contact between the > >> two. The "down" stop can be bent back up to prevent this contact. > >> > >> Let us know what you find!! > >> > >> 73, Garey - K4OAH > >> Glen Allen, VA > >> > >> Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> Byron Tatum wrote: > >>> Hello- > >>> I have an unusual problem perhaps someone could shed some light on: > >>> I have a TR-4 in 29K serial range that functions normally > >>> except it will not go back into receive, until after approx 30 second > >>> delay, after the mic button is released or the function switch turned > >>> back to "SSB". This condition worsens (longer delay) the more you > >>> frequently you transmit. The sidetone disappears but T-R relay will > >>> not release. > >>> I have tried different known-good 6EV7 tubes, have replaced a lot > >>> of the coupling / bypass caps in T-R circuits, did resistance / > >>> voltage checks, adjusted the VOX / VOX delay controls, tried other > >>> tubes in T-R circuit, etc. to no avail. > >>> What is real curious about this is that while waiting for it to go > >>> back into receive and T-R relay is engaged, IF YOU PULL THE 6EV7 FROM > >>> ITS SOCKET THE T-R RELAY STILL DOES NOT RELEASE. I suspect the issue > >>> is with the lead that goes from T-R relay coil to pin #1 on 6EV7 > >>> (somehow allowing enough leakage to ground?) or could it be the T-R > >>> relay coil itself I made sure socket / pins and all are clean on > >>> 6EV7. > >>> Any help appreciated, thanks. > >>> Perplexed, > >>> Byron WA5THJ. > >>> > >> > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Submissions: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in > > body > > Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message > > Zerobeat Web Page: - sponsored by > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > Submissions: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body > Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message > Zerobeat Web Page: - sponsored by > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- j zx

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       Ron / WB4HFN -------------- Original message -------------- From: Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Garey Barrell made an utterance to the drakelist gang > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > Byron - > > OK. Relays take more coil current to "pull in" than they do to "hold > in". It takes a certain amount of current through the coil (pull) to > drag the armature from it's non-energized position to the energized > position. It takes much less current to (hold) it once there, so slight > leakage might NOT be sufficient to pull, but more than enough to hold. > > I don't know of any good way to touch up the panels. The original > "paint" is so thin, (I actually think it is more a dye (anodize?) than > paint, but don't know for sure,) and as a result any sort of paint ends > up looking worse than the mark! For a small mark or two, it might be > possible to just "fill" the mark to the level of the panel, but a string > of numbers would be a real challenge. Never could understand people > that do that sort of thing, especially on the front panel!! > > I just saw your order. There are scans of both the 34-NB and the 34-PNB > manuals, with quite a bit of information, plus I have added a photograph > of the board itself with active components and alignment info > annotated. There is also a Voltage table for the NB, which has not been > previously published. It's really a straightforward design, and most > units in the field benefit from an alignment. > > A lot of the components are common between the TR-3 and TR-4, but every > once in a while they threw in a curve like that cap to keep us off > balance! :-) > > Your CDs will go out tomorrow. Thank you! > > 73, Garey - K4OAH > Glen Allen, VA > > Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs > > > > > Byron Tatum wrote: > > > > "Byron Tatum" made an utterance to the drakelist gang > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Hey Garey- > > Thank you for the comments and help. I start nights at work and > > will have several to complete, then I will get back into the TR-4. I > > will measure voltage as you suggest, looking for a slight voltage > > drop. Then I will check out relay itself. > > I am beginning to think that it is the magnetizing of pole piece > > and relay wear that is the problem. If it was a leakage to ground on > > the 6EV7 pin #1 lead you might think the set would go into TX on its > > own (relay energize) every now and then, of which I have never saw it do. > > One other thing- I bought a nice TR-4 from a fellow, based on > > several pictures, but the photo angles, due to glare, covered up (of > > all things) a ham's DL # engraved on the front panel in tiny lettering > > , immediately to the right of "TR-4" on front panel. Do you know of a > > touch up paint that matches the darker grey of that front panel area? > > I got the set for a decent price, it was nice and had the built in > > NB, but had a problem (as advertised). I found T-9 to be burned out in > > center area of coil form. I had a spare T-9 from a parts unit TR-3. > > Thank goodness I opened up the TR-3 T-9 transformer before I installed > > it -- it had a 56 pF cap in it that was not in the TR-4 T-9. Otherwise > > the coils looked the same. Anyway, I clipped out the capacitor and all > > went OK after the repair. That is not a fun repair for sure!! > > CUL, Byron. > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Garey Barrell" > > To: > > Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 1:46 PM > > Subject: Re: [drakelist] TR-4 TX Hang-Up > > > > > >> Byron - > >> > >> Well things were going well until you pulled the tube out of the > >> socket! :-) > >> > >> There are a limited number of possibilities in that case. The relay > >> coil leads go through the feedthrough bypass caps _under_ the power > >> connector. Of course the relay lead to the 6EV7 is the one UNDER the > >> Jones connector, the last one in the "arc" of feedthroughs there. > >> (C92) There are no more components between this feedthrough and the > >> 6EV7 tube socket. The other relay coil lead goes directly the +250V bus > >> via the next feedthrough cap along the arc, (C91). So the voltage > >> measured at the tube socket pin with the tube out should be exactly the > >> same as the +250V bus. Any drop would indicate leakage. See attached > >> photo from my CD (at reduced resolution). > >> > >> So..... Leaky C92, leaky tube socket, pinched wire. One possibility I > >> have seen a few times is the "down" stop on the relay gets hammered down > >> over the years, allowing the armature to actually touch the pole piece > >> of the coil. The pole piece is slightly magnetized, and if the armature > >> physically is in contact with it, it will "stick". An easy check is to > >> slip a piece of paper in to prevent metal to metal contact between the > >> two. The "down" stop can be bent back up to prevent this contact. > >> > >> Let us know what you find!! > >> > >> 73, Garey - K4OAH > >> Glen Allen, VA > >> > >> Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> Byron Tatum wrote: > >>> Hello- > >>> I have an unusual problem perhaps someone could shed some light on: > >>> I have a TR-4 in 29K serial range that functions normally > >>> except it will not go back into receive, until after approx 30 second > >>> delay, after the mic button is released or the function switch turned > >>> back to "SSB". This condition worsens (longer delay) the more you > >>> frequently you transmit. The sidetone disappears but T-R relay will > >>> not release. > >>> I have tried different known-good 6EV7 tubes, have replaced a lot > >>> of the coupling / bypass caps in T-R circuits, did resistance / > >>> voltage checks, adjusted the VOX / VOX delay controls, tried other > >>> tubes in T-R circuit, etc. to no avail. > >>> What is real curious about this is that while waiting for it to go > >>> back into receive and T-R relay is engaged, IF YOU PULL THE 6EV7 FROM > >>> ITS SOCKET THE T-R RELAY STILL DOES NOT RELEASE. I suspect the issue > >>> is with the lead that goes from T-R relay coil to pin #1 on 6EV7 > >>> (somehow allowing enough leakage to ground?) or could it be the T-R > >>> relay coil itself I made sure socket / pins and all are clean on > >>> 6EV7. > >>> Any help appreciated, thanks. > >>> Perplexed, > >>> Byron WA5THJ. > >>> > >> > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Submissions: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in > > body > > Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message > > Zerobeat Web Page: - sponsored by > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > Submissions: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body > Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message > Zerobeat Web Page: - sponsored by > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- o zZ目前官方已在最新版本2.6.6与3.0.2中修复了该漏洞,请受影响的用户尽快升级版本进行防护,官方下载链接:Pu j

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       Ron / WB4HFN -------------- Original message -------------- From: Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Garey Barrell made an utterance to the drakelist gang > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > Byron - > > OK. Relays take more coil current to "pull in" than they do to "hold > in". It takes a certain amount of current through the coil (pull) to > drag the armature from it's non-energized position to the energized > position. It takes much less current to (hold) it once there, so slight > leakage might NOT be sufficient to pull, but more than enough to hold. > > I don't know of any good way to touch up the panels. The original > "paint" is so thin, (I actually think it is more a dye (anodize?) than > paint, but don't know for sure,) and as a result any sort of paint ends > up looking worse than the mark! For a small mark or two, it might be > possible to just "fill" the mark to the level of the panel, but a string > of numbers would be a real challenge. Never could understand people > that do that sort of thing, especially on the front panel!! > > I just saw your order. There are scans of both the 34-NB and the 34-PNB > manuals, with quite a bit of information, plus I have added a photograph > of the board itself with active components and alignment info > annotated. There is also a Voltage table for the NB, which has not been > previously published. It's really a straightforward design, and most > units in the field benefit from an alignment. > > A lot of the components are common between the TR-3 and TR-4, but every > once in a while they threw in a curve like that cap to keep us off > balance! :-) > > Your CDs will go out tomorrow. Thank you! > > 73, Garey - K4OAH > Glen Allen, VA > > Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs > > > > > Byron Tatum wrote: > > > > "Byron Tatum" made an utterance to the drakelist gang > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Hey Garey- > > Thank you for the comments and help. I start nights at work and > > will have several to complete, then I will get back into the TR-4. I > > will measure voltage as you suggest, looking for a slight voltage > > drop. Then I will check out relay itself. > > I am beginning to think that it is the magnetizing of pole piece > > and relay wear that is the problem. If it was a leakage to ground on > > the 6EV7 pin #1 lead you might think the set would go into TX on its > > own (relay energize) every now and then, of which I have never saw it do. > > One other thing- I bought a nice TR-4 from a fellow, based on > > several pictures, but the photo angles, due to glare, covered up (of > > all things) a ham's DL # engraved on the front panel in tiny lettering > > , immediately to the right of "TR-4" on front panel. Do you know of a > > touch up paint that matches the darker grey of that front panel area? > > I got the set for a decent price, it was nice and had the built in > > NB, but had a problem (as advertised). I found T-9 to be burned out in > > center area of coil form. I had a spare T-9 from a parts unit TR-3. > > Thank goodness I opened up the TR-3 T-9 transformer before I installed > > it -- it had a 56 pF cap in it that was not in the TR-4 T-9. Otherwise > > the coils looked the same. Anyway, I clipped out the capacitor and all > > went OK after the repair. That is not a fun repair for sure!! > > CUL, Byron. > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Garey Barrell" > > To: > > Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 1:46 PM > > Subject: Re: [drakelist] TR-4 TX Hang-Up > > > > > >> Byron - > >> > >> Well things were going well until you pulled the tube out of the > >> socket! :-) > >> > >> There are a limited number of possibilities in that case. The relay > >> coil leads go through the feedthrough bypass caps _under_ the power > >> connector. Of course the relay lead to the 6EV7 is the one UNDER the > >> Jones connector, the last one in the "arc" of feedthroughs there. > >> (C92) There are no more components between this feedthrough and the > >> 6EV7 tube socket. The other relay coil lead goes directly the +250V bus > >> via the next feedthrough cap along the arc, (C91). So the voltage > >> measured at the tube socket pin with the tube out should be exactly the > >> same as the +250V bus. Any drop would indicate leakage. See attached > >> photo from my CD (at reduced resolution). > >> > >> So..... Leaky C92, leaky tube socket, pinched wire. One possibility I > >> have seen a few times is the "down" stop on the relay gets hammered down > >> over the years, allowing the armature to actually touch the pole piece > >> of the coil. The pole piece is slightly magnetized, and if the armature > >> physically is in contact with it, it will "stick". An easy check is to > >> slip a piece of paper in to prevent metal to metal contact between the > >> two. The "down" stop can be bent back up to prevent this contact. > >> > >> Let us know what you find!! > >> > >> 73, Garey - K4OAH > >> Glen Allen, VA > >> > >> Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> Byron Tatum wrote: > >>> Hello- > >>> I have an unusual problem perhaps someone could shed some light on: > >>> I have a TR-4 in 29K serial range that functions normally > >>> except it will not go back into receive, until after approx 30 second > >>> delay, after the mic button is released or the function switch turned > >>> back to "SSB". This condition worsens (longer delay) the more you > >>> frequently you transmit. The sidetone disappears but T-R relay will > >>> not release. > >>> I have tried different known-good 6EV7 tubes, have replaced a lot > >>> of the coupling / bypass caps in T-R circuits, did resistance / > >>> voltage checks, adjusted the VOX / VOX delay controls, tried other > >>> tubes in T-R circuit, etc. to no avail. > >>> What is real curious about this is that while waiting for it to go > >>> back into receive and T-R relay is engaged, IF YOU PULL THE 6EV7 FROM > >>> ITS SOCKET THE T-R RELAY STILL DOES NOT RELEASE. I suspect the issue > >>> is with the lead that goes from T-R relay coil to pin #1 on 6EV7 > >>> (somehow allowing enough leakage to ground?) or could it be the T-R > >>> relay coil itself I made sure socket / pins and all are clean on > >>> 6EV7. > >>> Any help appreciated, thanks. > >>> Perplexed, > >>> Byron WA5THJ. > >>> > >> > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Submissions: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in > > body > > Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message > > Zerobeat Web Page: - sponsored by > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > Submissions: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body > Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message > Zerobeat Web Page: - sponsored by > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- a b T

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    不锈钢有缝管和不锈钢无缝管的化学成分有一定差异

    作者:无锡不锈钢管厂 来源:www.tjghgt.com 点击数: 更新时间:2020年12月04 【字体:

    有缝不锈钢管和无缝不锈钢管的区别?不锈钢无缝管的制bai造工du艺是在2200°f的温度下在不zhi锈钢方坯中冲压dao出一个孔,在此高zhuan温下,工shu具钢经冲压和拉延变得柔软并螺旋状地从孔中成形出来。这样管道的壁厚不均匀且偏心度高。无缝管的壁厚差比有缝管的壁厚差大。由于不锈钢有缝管是通过精确的冷轧板制成,有缝管壁厚的公差很小,并且整个圆周的壁厚非常均一。
    不锈钢有缝管和不锈钢无缝管的化学成分有一定差异。生产无缝管的钢材成分仅仅是达到astm的基本要求。而生产有缝管的钢材则含有适用于焊接的化学成分 。例如硅、硫、锰、氧及与三角铁素体等元素按一定比例的混合可在焊接过程中产生一种易于传递热的焊熔物,以使整个焊缝焊透。缺少以上化学成分的钢管,例如无缝管,在焊接过程中会产生各种不稳定因素,不容易焊牢且焊不透。欢迎新老客户来电,金属制品有限公司,价格优美,品质一流,诚信为本,持续发展,货到付款

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